MAKES APPROXIMATELY 14 3-INCH PANCAKES

Matzo meal is a traditional binder, though we found that the pancake’s texture does not suffer without it. Applesauce and sour cream are classic accompaniments for potato latkes.

Serves 8 to 10

If your steamer basket has short legs (under 1 3/4 inches), the potatoes will sit in water as they cook and get wet. To prevent this, use balls of aluminum foil as steamer basket stilts. A stand mixer fitted with a whisk attachment yields the smoothest potatoes, but a hand mixer may be used as well.

WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS:
High-starch russet potatoes made for superior Whipped Potatoes compared with Yukon Gold or red potatoes because their high starch content causes the cells to separate and puff when cooked. Boiling the potatoes added extra water, resulting in a flatter finished dish. We found that the best technique was to rinse excess starch from the raw potatoes, steam them, and finish the steamed potatoes on the stovetop. This process made them fluffier and better able to absorb butter and milk.

Serves 6 to 8

If you prefer to use kosher salt, you will need 1½ cups of Morton or 2½ cups of Diamond Crystal.

WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS:
Some Syracuse Salt Potatoes recipes call for three cups of salt, but we found that to be excessive. We reduced the salt content dramatically to create a potato recipe with a well-seasoned (not too salty) crust and ultra-creamy interior. Both kosher and non-iodized salt worked equally well. And small white or red potatoes, left whole and unpeeled, worked best in our Syracuse Salt Potatoes—if cut or peeled, the potatoes absorb too much salt. Adding chives and black pepper brought this dish to a new level.

Serves 6 to 8

We prefer white wine vinegar here, but white and cider vinegars are acceptable substitutes.

WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS:
Bottled ranch dressing sounds like a quick way to dress up potato salad, but many ranch potato salad recipes are surprisingly dull and bland. We found that red-skinned potatoes were key to our Ranch Potato Salad recipe—they hold their shape better than other types. Peeling the potatoes allowed them to absorb more dressing. For a flavorful dressing, we doubled the amount of cilantro used in most ranch potato salad recipes and added fresh garlic and scallions for a welcome bite. Dijon mustard and vinegar provide acidity and bite, while chopped roasted red peppers are a sweet counterpoint. Just a dash of dried dill lends the perfect amount of dill flavor. To better season the potatoes, we tossed the hot spuds first with just the Dijon mustard and vinegar.

SERVES 4 TO 6 AS A SIDE DISH

We prefer shredding the potatoes on the large holes of a box grater, but you can also use the large shredding disk of a food processor; cut the potatoes into 2-inch lengths first so you are left with short shreds. Serve with applesauce and sour cream.

WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS:
We wanted latkes that were light and not greasy, with buttery soft interiors surrounded by a shatteringly crisp outer shell. To achieve all of these goals, we needed to remove as much water as possible from the potato shreds by wringing them out in a kitchen towel and to minimize the release of what remained by microwaving the shreds briefly to cause the starches in the potatoes to form a gel. With the water taken care of, the latkes crisped up quickly and absorbed minimal oil.

Makes 16 potato skins

The potatoes can be cooked, scooped, and refrigerated in an airtight container for 2 days before proceeding with the recipe. Serve with sour cream and sliced scallions, if you like.

Serves 4 to 6

This recipe is designed to work with potatoes 1½ to 2 inches in diameter; do not use potatoes any larger. It is important to thoroughly cook the potatoes so that they will smash easily. Remove the potatoes from the baking sheet as soon as they are done browning—they will toughen if left too long. A potato masher can also be used to “smash” the potatoes.

Serves 6 as a side dish

If fresh chervil isn’t available, substitute an additional 1/2 tablespoon of minced parsley and an additional 1/2 teaspoon of tarragon. For best flavor, serve the salad warm, but to make ahead, follow the recipe through step 2, cover with plastic wrap, and refrigerate. Before serving, bring the salad to room temperature, then add the shallots and herbs.

Serves 4

To achieve the proper texture, it is important to cook the potatoes thoroughly; they are done if they break apart when a knife is inserted and gently wiggled (see photo below). Buttermilk substitutes such as clabbered milk do not produce sufficiently tangy potatoes. To reduce the chance of curdling, the buttermilk must be at room temperature when mixed with cooled melted butter.

SERVES 4

The test kitchen prefers a roesti prepared with potatoes that have been cut through the large shredding disk of a food processor. It is possible to use a box grater to cut the potatoes, but they should be cut lengthwise, so you are left with long shreds. It is imperative to squeeze the potatoes as dry as possible. A well-seasoned cast-iron skillet can be used in place of the nonstick skillet. By adding fried eggs, ham, bacon, cheese, cooked onions, and/or tomatoes, (see specific suggestions below) roesti can be turned into a light meal.