“This is a healthier, pared-down version of a rich, hearty dish from the Lombardy region of Italy that normally is made with buckwheat pasta (pizzoccheri), cabbage, potatoes, and abundant butter and cheese. You can substitute Japanese soba for the pizzocheri; if you can find neither, use whole wheat fettuccine.”
Advance preparation: You can make the dish through step 2 several hours ahead. Remove from the heat, then reheat when you cook the pasta.