SERVES 6

For profiteroles, the smooth, dense texture and rich flavor of a high-quality custard-style ice cream is preferable to the light, fluffy texture and milky flavor of Philadelphia-style ice cream, which is made without eggs. In our September/ October 2001 vanilla ice cream tasting, Edy’s Dreamery came out on top. If you’re serving several guests, prescooping the ice cream makes serving quick and neat, but if you’re assembling only a couple servings or your freezer lacks space, you can skip the prescooping step. Refer to illustrations below when assembling profiteroles.

WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS:
To develop a perfect profiteroles recipe—for a crisp, tender, and airy pastry encasing cold, creamy ice cream and napped by dark, luxurious chocolate sauce—we began with the pastry, using both milk and water for puffs that were crisp and browned nicely. We used the powerful food processor to incorporate whole eggs into the choux paste and baked the puffs on an uncrowded baking sheet to keep them from collapsing. We slit the baked puffs to release steam and then returned them to the oven for 45 minutes to ensure crispness.

http://www.americastestkitchenfeed.com/bake-it-better/2013/01/secrets-to-profiteroles/

Makes about 40 cookies

Be sure that the cookie dough is well chilled and firm so that it can be uniformly sliced.

WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS:
Having slice-and-bake cookie dough in the refrigerator or freezer is great, because you can bake whenever the mood strikes. But because these simple cookie recipes have so few basic ingredients, imperfections are impossible to hide. With too much flour, the cookies are crisp but dry and bland; go overboard with butter, sugar, or egg and the cookies are rich but soft and misshapen. We set out to create a slice-and-bake cookie recipe that would combine both crispness and rich butter and vanilla flavor—in effect, shortbread shaped into a convenient slice-and-bake log. Using both granulated sugar and light brown sugar gave the cookies a richness and complexity that tasters liked. We used the food processor to combine our recipe ingredients quickly without whipping in too much air—our Orange-Poppy Seed Slice-and-Bake Cookies had the dense shortbread-like texture we were after.

Serves 10 to 12

Be sure to give the pudding and the cake enough time to cool or you’ll end up with runny pudding and gummy cake.

WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS:
Chocolate Blackout Cake was first made by a bakery in Brooklyn 35 years ago. We wanted to create a version that could be prepared long after the shop had shut its doors. To achieve this, we used Dutch-processed cocoa for big chocolate flavor, and added cocoa powder to the butter we were already melting for the cake. This method—toasting the cocoa in the butter—produced a cake that was dark and rich. And to complement the distinctive chocolate flavor of the Chocolate Blackout Cake, we wanted the pudding component of our recipe to taste sweet and dairy-rich. We achieved this by using a combination of milk and half-and-half, which gave the pudding a velvety quality.

Serves 4 to 6

To help prevent the filling from leaking, use large, 8-ounce chicken breasts and thoroughly chill the stuffed breasts before breading. We like Black Forest ham here.

WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS:
Our goal was a Foolproof Chicken Cordon Bleu recipe that would be worth making. We found cutting a pocket into the breast to be much more efficient than the traditional method of pounding and rolling. To get the same swirl effect achieved by rolling the chicken around the ham and cheese, we simply rolled the ham slices into cylinders around shredded cheese and tucked the cylinders into each chicken breast. Adding a healthy dose of Dijon mustard to the egg wash boosted the flavor of our Chicken Cordon Bleu recipe, as did ditching store-bought bread crumbs in favor of homemade.

Serves 4

Serve this breakfast classic with ketchup.

WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS:
Not happy with the pasty, tinny flavored stuff from a can, we wanted to develop a homemade corned beef hash recipe from scratch. For the best flavor and texture, we used thick slabs of corned beef from the deli counter. To prevent the potatoes from getting too mushy, we cooked them partially before adding them to the hash. Adding a little heavy cream kept our Corned Beef Hash moist and rich tasting. We also found that it was detrimental to stir our Corned Beef Hash too often. This meant allowing the hash to develop a browned crust before inverting it and browning the unbrowned side.

Serves 4 to 6

Don’t let the boiled potatoes sit in water or they will become mushy. Drying them in step 1 makes for a deeply golden crust. Start checking the potatoes early in step 4. You can use a rimless cookie sheet in place of the inverted baking sheet.

WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS:
We tested three potato varieties for our Steakhouse Hash Browns recipe: russets, Yukon Golds, and red potatoes. Tasters much preferred the fluffy russets, partly because their starchy texture helped the hash browns cohere and facilitated browning. For a creamy interior, butter proved far superior to heavy cream, half-and-half, milk, buttermilk, and sour cream, all of which made the interior too wet to crisp. No matter how many spatulas we used or how delicately we tried to flip our Steakhouse Hash Browns, we just couldn’t do it without the potatoes falling apart. Gently sliding them onto a baking sheet (browned side down) and broiling the hash browns in the oven guaranteed a crisp, evenly browned exterior.

Makes one 9-inch cake
Ambrosia, food of the gods in Greek and Roman mythology, is something a bit more humble in most American households, where it’s better known as a chilled fruit salad, often made with mandarin oranges, pineapple, and coconut. The tall and tropical ambrosia cake, made with angel food cake, pineapple curd, and orange and vanilla frostings, has more heavenly aspirations.

WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS:
To prevent our Ambrosia Cake recipe’s pineapple curd from curdling, we combined the hot juice and egg-and-sugar slowly. We cut our angel food cake into four layers and sandwiched the curd and the orange and pineapple slices in between. We then used orange-flavored frosting to adhere the orange slices, and the pineapple curd to adhere the pineapple slices.

Serves 8

If you can’t find frozen pineapple, substitute fresh.

WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS:
For a sweeter, fresher flavor, we opted for frozen pineapple, which was more consistent than fresh fruit. We also drastically decreased the butter and used fat-free sour cream in place of the full-fat variety. To improve the color of the cake, we replaced some of the white sugar in the batter with brown. Because brown sugar is moister and more flavorful than white sugar, we could reduce the total sugar in the batter without worrying the cake would be dry or undersweetened. Merely topping pineapple with batter and baking the cake in the oven resulted in a soggy mess. To combat the problem, we sautéed the fruit with sugar on the stovetop to caramelize the pineapple and reduce some of the juices.

Traditional pineapple upside-down cake recipes have 430 calories, 18 grams of fat, and 13 grams of saturated fat per slice. Our changes brought the numbers down to 310 calories, 9 grams of fat, and 6 grams of saturated fat.

http://youtu.be/EixpnQRC2hw

Serves 4

We prefer Hellmann’s low-fat mayonnaise. Use the flat edge of a chef’s knife to smash the peeled garlic cloves. A ricer or a food mill makes for an exceptionally creamy mash, but if you don’t own either one, use a potato masher.

WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS:
When developing our recipe for Reduced-Fat Mashed Potatoes, we discovered that potato types varied only slightly in nutritional value, but Yukon Golds outshone other potato varieties for their buttery flavor and silky, light texture. Replacing some of the dairy with reserved potato cooking water cut calories. Furthermore, the starch from the water contributed a smooth, supple consistency to the mashed potatoes. We were surprised to find that a single tablespoon of butter was all that was necessary to impart a noticeable buttery taste. A little low-fat mayonnaise compensated for the loss of creaminess.

Traditional recipes have 352 calories, 25 grams of fat, and 16 grams of saturated fat per 1-cup serving. Our changes brought the numbers down to 174 calories, 3 grams of fat, and 1 gram of saturated fat.