Straight from 19th-century American cookbooks, these big chunks of ripe beefsteak and green tomatoes get bathed in a warm, garlicky, sweet-sour dressing. They stand on their own, top greens, or make a good potato-tomato salad. Bacon fat was favored 150 years ago; olive oil works well today. Out of season, this recipe still works with supermarket tomatoes on the vine.

Cook to Cook: Dressing can be prepared several hours ahead up to the point of adding the vinegar. The oil should be warm, but not hot, when the vinegar goes in.

quick and easy variation on an old theme