Ingredients

• 3 tablespoons unsalted butter
• 1 pound mushrooms, one or several varieties of 1/2-pound fresh (cremini) and 1/2-pound (shitake and wood ear), cleaned
• 1/4 cup shallots, minced
• sea salt
• fresh ground black pepper
• 1/4 cup brandy
• 1/4 cup flour (unbleached white or whole wheat pastry flour)
• 1 1/4 cups milk, warmed
• 1/4 cup crème fraîche or sour cream
• 2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley
• 2 teaspoons chopped fresh tarragon

Directions

1. If using dried mushrooms, cover with warm water and set them aside to soak for at least 15 minutes and up to several hours. Drain and reserve some of the soak water to use in place of up to ½ cup of the milk.

2. Slice the fresh and/or dried mushrooms. Melt the butter in a 10-inch skillet over medium heat. Add the mushrooms, shallots, and salt and cook until they’re nicely colored, about 5 minutes stirring occasionally. Add the brandy and cook for 5 minutes more.

3. Gradually stir in the flour into the mushroom mixture. Whisk the sauce and cook for another 5 minutes over medium heat.

4. Stir in the warmed milk, crème fraîche, and mushroom soak water if using. Cook over low heat, stirring often, about 5 to 10 more minutes until thickened and smooth. For a heartier sauce, let sauce cool for several minutes, then purée half of it in a blender or pulse with a stick blender several times until desired consistency is reached. Season to taste with black pepper and salt. Add the chopped parsley and tarragon to the sauce, and serve over long noodles (like tagliatelle).

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