Rosemary Focaccia

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(from Bethany’s recipe box)

Makes two 9-inch round loaves

If you don’t have a baking stone, bake the bread on an overturned, preheated rimmed baking sheet set on the upper-middle oven rack. The bread can be kept for up to 2 days well wrapped at room temperature or frozen for 2 months wrapped in foil and placed in a zipper-lock bag.

WHY THIS RECIPE WORKS:
Most of the focaccia we see in the States is heavy, thick, and strewn with pizza-like toppings. We wanted a lighter loaf, crisp-crusted and airy on the inside and topped with just a smattering of herbs.

To start, we focused on flavor. To get the benefits of a long fermentation with minimal effort, many bakers use a “preferment” (also known as a “sponge,” “starter,” or biga in Italian): a mixture of flour, water, and a small amount of yeast that rests (often overnight) before being incorporated into the dough. We followed suit, but the interiors of the loaves weren’t as tender and airy as we wanted. We wondered if our standing mixer was developing too much gluten (the strong, elastic network of cross-linked proteins that give bread its crumb structure). Instead we turned to a more gentle approach, one we learned while developing our Almost No-Knead Bread. In this method, a high hydration level (the weight of the water in relation to the weight of the flour) and a long autolysis (the dough resting process) take advantage of the enzymes naturally present in the wheat to produce the same effect as kneading.

This method worked to a point—our loaves were light and airy, but squat. To improve the structure, we turned the dough (folding in the edges of the dough toward the middle) at regular intervals while it proofed. But to cut back on the long proofing time (three hours) and hasten gluten development, we followed the advice of research, which suggested holding back the salt when mixing our dough, adding it in later. (Salt inhibits flour from absorbing water and slows down the activity of the enzymes responsible for developing gluten.) The results were dramatic—we were able to shave an hour off our proofing time.

To give our loaves a flavorful, crisp crust, we oiled the baking pans and added coarse salt for flavor and an extra crunchy texture. This focaccia was a revelation: crackly crisp on the bottom, deeply browned on top, with an interior that was open and airy.

Source: America's Test Kitchen Season 11: Simply Italian

Categories: Breads, Sandwiches, and Pizza

Ingredients

  • BIGA:
  • 1/2 cup (2 1/2 ounces) unbleached all-purpose flour
  • 1/3 cup (2 2/3 ounces) warm water (100-110 degrees F)
  • 1/4 teaspoon instant or rapid-rise yeast
  • DOUGH:
  • 2 1/2 cups (12 1/2 ounces) unbleached all-purpose flour, plus extra for shaping
  • 1 1/4 cups (10 ounces) warm water (100-110 degrees F)
  • 1 teaspoon instant or rapid-rise yeast
  • Kosher salt
  • 4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
  • 2 tablespoons chopped fresh rosemary

Directions

  1. FOR THE BIGA: Combine flour, water, and yeast in large bowl and stir with wooden spoon until uniform mass forms and no dry flour remains, about 1 minute. Cover bowl tightly with plastic wrap and let stand at room temperature (about 70 degrees) overnight (at least 8 hours and up to 24 hours.) Use immediately or store in refrigerator for up to 3 days (allow to stand at room temperature 30 minutes before proceeding with recipe.)

  2. FOR THE DOUGH: Stir flour, water, and yeast into biga with wooden spoon until uniform mass forms and no dry flour remains, about 1 minute. Cover with plastic wrap and let rise at room temperature for 15 minutes.

  3. Sprinkle 2 teaspoons salt over dough; stir into dough until thoroughly incorporated, about 1 minute. Cover with plastic wrap and let rise at room temperature 30 minutes. Spray rubber spatula or bowl scraper with nonstick cooking spray; fold partially risen dough over itself by gently lifting and folding edge of dough toward middle. Turn bowl 90 degrees; fold again. Turn bowl and fold dough 6 more times (total of 8 turns). Cover with plastic wrap and let rise for 30 minutes. Repeat folding, turning, and rising 2 more times, for total of three 30-minute rises. Meanwhile, adjust oven rack to upper-middle position, place baking stone on rack, and heat oven to 500 degrees at least 30 minutes before baking.

  4. Gently transfer dough to lightly floured counter. Lightly dust top of dough with flour and divide in half. Shape each piece of dough into 5-inch round by gently tucking under edges. Coat two 9-inch round cake pans with 2 tablespoons olive oil each. Sprinkle each pan with ½ teaspoon kosher salt. Place round of dough in pan, top side down; slide dough around pan to coat bottom and sides, then flip over. Repeat with second piece of dough. Cover pans with plastic wrap and let rest for 5 minutes.

  5. Using fingertips, press dough out toward edges of pan. (If dough resists stretching, let it relax for 5 to 10 minutes before trying again.) Using dinner fork, poke surface of dough 25 to 30 times, popping any large bubbles. Sprinkle rosemary evenly over top of dough. Let dough rest until slightly bubbly, 5 to 10 minutes.

  6. Place pans on baking stone and reduce oven temperature to 450 degrees. Bake until tops are golden brown, 25 to 28 minutes, switching placement of pans halfway through baking. Transfer pans to wire rack and let cool 5 minutes. Remove loaves from pan and return to wire rack. Brush tops with any oil remaining in pan. Let cool 30 minutes before serving.

  7. HOW TO MAKE AIRY, FLAVORFUL NO-KNEAD FOCACCIA – 1. MAKE DOUGH: Stir flour, water, and yeast into biga with wooden spoon until uniform mass forms and no dry flour remains, about 1 minute. 2. LET RISE 15 MINUTES: Cover with plastic wrap and let rise at room temperature 15 minutes. 3. ADD SALT: Stir salt into dough until thoroughly incorporated, about 1 minute. 4. LET RISE 30 MINUTES: Cover with plastic wrap and let rise at room temperature 30 minutes. 5. FOLD AND TURN: Gently lift and fold edge of dough toward middle. Turn bowl 90 degrees; fold again. Repeat for total of eight turns. 6. LET RISE AND REPEAT: Cover with plastic wrap and let rise 30 minutes. Repeat folding, turning, and rising two more times, for total of three 30-minute rises. 7. DIVIDE, SHAPE, OIL: Divide dough in half and gently shape halves into rounds. Place in oiled, salted pans, then coat with oil and salt and flip. Cover with plastic wrap; let rest 5 minutes. 8. STRETCH: Using fingertips, press dough out toward edges of pan, taking care not to tear it. (If dough resists, let it relax 5 to 10 minutes and try again.) 9. POKE, SPRINKLE, REST: With dinner fork, poke dough surface 25 to 30 times. Sprinkle rosemary evenly over top. Let dough rest in pan until slightly bubbly, 5 to 10 minutes. 10. BAKE: Bake on preheated stones at 450 degrees until tops are golden brown, 25 to 28 minutes, switching position of pans halfway through baking.

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