Smaller florets work better (and cook quicker) than larger ones. Fattier sour cream curdles less, unfortunately. If the mushroom slices are too small they will disappear; if that’s good, then make them smaller.

This soup is a simple affair of pureed pumpkin cooked with milk.

“In Venice we have big soups, simple soups,” Francesco says. “This is a good example.” But he adds that when it’s served at Remi, it is sometimes garnished with creme fraiche and caviar, for a lavish touch befitting the Venetian taste for luxury. At one time there were sturgeon in the Venetian lagoon, providing the city with its own supply of caviar. For a more humble Venetian garnish, some rounds of bread fried in butter or olive oil will do nicely.

Other veggies can be added to the carrot wok, either before the carrots for hard things or with the sauce for softer.

Smaller florets work better (and cook quicker) than larger ones. Fattier sour cream curdles less, unfortunately. If the mushroom slices are too small they will disappear; if that’s good, then make them smaller.