This is both a good dessert for a formal dinner and a pleasant brunch dish. I’ve also served wedges of it an antipasto, with glasses of prosecco or champagne.

(Makes two 8-inch frittatas, enough for 4 to 6 as an antipasto, 2 as a brunch or lunch dish, or 4 as a dessert)

“In Venice we have big soups, simple soups,” Francesco says. “This is a good example.” But he adds that when it’s served at Remi, it is sometimes garnished with creme fraiche and caviar, for a lavish touch befitting the Venetian taste for luxury. At one time there were sturgeon in the Venetian lagoon, providing the city with its own supply of caviar. For a more humble Venetian garnish, some rounds of bread fried in butter or olive oil will do nicely.